May 2012
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Carlo Traversi in Bishop
Carlo Traversi climbs The Buttermilker (V13) and Mandala (V12) on an early 2010 trip to Bishop, California. Most recently, Traversi climbed Memory is Parallax (V14), a problem established by Dave Graham in late December 2010, about which he said: “One of the best. Really psyched to complete this one.”
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Daniel Woods: 76 V-points in 6 problems
At the 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo, Daniel Woods had one of the best days of bouldering in his life. He was able to climb 76 Vpoints in six boulders: Nagual (V13), The Machinist (V14), Crook by the Book (V14), Phantom Limb (V12), Full Monty (V12), and Two Days With Gene (V11). He took first place in the comp.
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Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks - The Classics
The Rainbow Wall towers over the rest of Red Rock. The Original Route (V 5.12) takes a plumb line up the center of the wall. The rock is flawless. The climbing sustained at 5.11 with a few harder cruxes thrown in. While it draws on the style that made Red Rock famous for its sport climbing, you need a single rack and traditional mindset. Unless you are super...
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Two 5.14d First Ascents in 75 Minutes
Pirmin Bertle made two 5.14d first ascents on March 30: Chromosome Y and Chromosome X at the Tribune in Switzerland. These are his sixth and seventh 5.14d ascents. Each climb took him about 40 attempts; the day he sent, he finished Chromosome X at 7:00 p.m. and Chromosome Y at 8:15 p.m. Read more at lizardclimbing.com.
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Crack School, Episode 3: Fist Cracks
“Crack School” is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, hands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall...
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Crack School, Episode 2: Hand Cracks
“Crack School” is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, gands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall...
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Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck climbs with Jonathan Griffith and explains his thoughts on climbing. “I try to always push my limits,” Steck says. “Since the beginning I was always rock climbing, soloing rock climbing routes. It’s just a part of climbing. I was always interested in it, and I always felt really comfortable without the rope. And that pushed me to speed...
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April 2012
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